Indoor Growing Scrog

[420autoflower]

Hey uh, im the new trash guy, um im here to help take out those bags for you bahahHa incredible haul Sensei!!!

Lol! Hilarious Brother!

This is madness

How on Earth do you avoid botrytis and pm with that extreme density! Holy smokes

The trick is to keep your R/H in the safe range from mid flower to harvest. I can have buds/colas growing on top of each other or up against the tent walls and never have to worry about mold or rot as long as my R/H is in check.

 

[Cascade]

I've read through this whole thread and lurked it for a good while in perpetual astonishment – what a wealth of information and inspiration, thank you for that! Coming from organics and soil side of things, I'm very intrigued to adopt this way of doing things and would have some questions about your general method:

(Schwazz) Do you have some rule of thumb concerning which fan leaves/branches to trim when defoliating before the scrogging? Also, do you do the super cropping by just clamping on to a branch with pliers and bending; is there something one should know about the technique?

(Nutrients) Do you switch to your flowering nutrient regimen right after the scrogging or do you still continue with veg nutrients for a little longer?

(EC & PH) Since you're running a recirculating setup, I was wondering how you approach measuring EC and PH. Do you check only the input nutrient solution you add to the reservoir or do you make sure EC and PH are in the correct ballpark after you've added the nutrient solution to the reservoir? Or do you do something else?

(Reservoir) Do you have some sort of setup to stir the nutrient solution in the reservoir (to keep the solution evenly mixed) or do you not bother with it?

Cheers, appreciate the thread and your efforts!

PS. I would also think that having the lights on 24 hours helps somewhat with avoiding PM and Botrytis since, afaik, the blue spectrum prevents fungal growth – though with that monstrous density of growth light penetration is limited.

 

[DOA]

I've read through this whole thread and lurked it for a good while in perpetual astonishment – what a wealth of information and inspiration, thank you for that! Coming from organics and soil side of things, I'm very intrigued to adopt this way of doing things and would have some questions about your general method:

(Schwazz) Do you have some rule of thumb concerning which fan leaves/branches to trim when defoliating before the scrogging? Also, do you do the super cropping by just clamping on to a branch with pliers and bending; is there something one should know about the technique?

(Nutrients) Do you switch to your flowering nutrient regimen right after the scrogging or do you still continue with veg nutrients for a little longer?

(EC & PH) Since you're running a recirculating setup, I was wondering how you approach measuring EC and PH. Do you check only the input nutrient solution you add to the reservoir or do you make sure EC and PH are in the correct ballpark after you've added the nutrient solution to the reservoir? Or do you do something else?

(Reservoir) Do you have some sort of setup to stir the nutrient solution in the reservoir (to keep the solution evenly mixed) or do you not bother with it?

Cheers, appreciate the thread and your efforts!

PS. I would also think that having the lights on 24 hours helps somewhat with avoiding PM and Botrytis since, afaik, the blue spectrum prevents fungal growth – though with that monstrous density of growth light penetration is limited.

From my experience, If you're going to give the 420Scrog method a go, definitely invest in a 3"x3" square frame. It makes the whole process of keeping those tops down during stretch that more manageable. I like to take of any leaves that are not connected to bud sites initially then anything blocking bud development 10 days later. Just keep taking the leaves away when needed. The sugar leaves from the kolas will have enough energy to see you through once you hit late flower. There's no need for excess foliage when all you want is fat buds

 

[greenauto]

Do you keep the tops down after flattening the plants out? (Or let it grow vertically again?)
We still want them to stretch a little bit vertically also after scrogging out, right?

 

[DOA]

Do you keep the tops down after flattening the plants out? (Or let it grow vertically again?)
We still want them to stretch a little bit vertically also after scrogging out, right?

Very important to keep the tops down as the plant stretches under the frame/mesh. This enables the light to reach all of the nodes eliminating any potential larf. Once stretch has almost finished the flowers are then allowed to fill out vertically, giving you that 420Scrog look. By removing a large percentage of leaf material at this stage will also see those buds swell. The last 2weeks is when you really see the weight pile on

 

[420autoflower]

I've read through this whole thread and lurked it for a good while in perpetual astonishment – what a wealth of information and inspiration, thank you for that! Coming from organics and soil side of things, I'm very intrigued to adopt this way of doing things and would have some questions about your general method:

(Schwazz) Do you have some rule of thumb concerning which fan leaves/branches to trim when defoliating before the scrogging? Also, do you do the super cropping by just clamping on to a branch with pliers and bending; is there something one should know about the technique?

(Nutrients) Do you switch to your flowering nutrient regimen right after the scrogging or do you still continue with veg nutrients for a little longer?

(EC & PH) Since you're running a recirculating setup, I was wondering how you approach measuring EC and PH. Do you check only the input nutrient solution you add to the reservoir or do you make sure EC and PH are in the correct ballpark after you've added the nutrient solution to the reservoir? Or do you do something else?

(Reservoir) Do you have some sort of setup to stir the nutrient solution in the reservoir (to keep the solution evenly mixed) or do you not bother with it?

Cheers, appreciate the thread and your efforts!

PS. I would also think that having the lights on 24 hours helps somewhat with avoiding PM and Botrytis since, afaik, the blue spectrum prevents fungal growth – though with that monstrous density of growth light penetration is limited.

Thank you!
Nice to know you’re enjoying the thread.

When I schwazz I basically pluck all the fan leaves that have leaf stems but leave a few at the top of every node. The first strip is always the easiest and they get more time consuming as the plant goes deeper into flower. The HST has to be done with a bit of finess or you risk permanently damaging main branches.

I don’t switch out the nutes when flowering starts since a lot of the brands I run are a A&B type system and the ratios are the same from veg to flower. If I’m fertigating with a strait veg nute in the beginning I just add different NPK and PK booster when I top off every evening.

Yes, EC and PH is checked and adjusted every evening when I top off.

I use to run air stones in all my reservoirs but don’t anymore and haven’t noticed any difference. Pumps click on every 4-5 hours and I’m adding 3-5 gallons of nutes every evening so my reservoirs are recirculating and staying pretty fresh.

Much less risk of rot or mold running your lights 24/7. Environment definitely stays more consistent and no raise in R/H when there’s no dark period.

 

[420autoflower]

From my experience, If you're going to give the 420Scrog method a go, definitely invest in a 3"x3" square frame. It makes the whole process of keeping those tops down during stretch that more manageable. I like to take of any leaves that are not connected to bud sites initially then anything blocking bud development 10 days later. Just keep taking the leaves away when needed. The sugar leaves from the kolas will have enough energy to see you through once you hit late flower. There's no need for excess foliage when all you want is fat buds

Do you keep the tops down after flattening the plants out? (Or let it grow vertically again?)
We still want them to stretch a little bit vertically also after scrogging out, right?

Yes! “need to keep the tops down for the bottoms to come up”.

Very important to keep the tops down as the plant stretches under the frame/mesh. This enables the light to reach all of the nodes eliminating any potential larf. Once stretch has almost finished the flowers are then allowed to fill out vertically, giving you that 420Scrog look. By removing a large percentage of leaf material at this stage will also see those buds swell. The last 2weeks is when you really see the weight pile on

Thank you Brother!
Always appreciate your help my friend.

 

[Cascade]

I usually run R/O with all my hydro grows but there’s no way I can pump that much out of the little countertop R/O system I have so no quality H20 for the outdoor girls. Instead, I’ve been filling up 5 gallon buckets the night before and dechlorinating the water with air pumps, my starting PPM coming out of the tap is 250 which is a little high compared to 15 PPM with the R/O but I’m still able to squeeze in just enough nutes in my feed to keep the ladies green without burning them.

Going back to an older post to give my two cents PSA: Water treated with chlorine or chloramine (which does not really break down if you let the water sit) can be dechlorinated with minuscule amounts of ascorbic acid aka vitamin c. As far as I understand, with chlorine a ratio of 1:2-3 of vitamin c to chlorine and with chloramine 1:1 does the job. This can be helpful for people who don't have RO water and want dechlorinated water plus for those whose local water is treated with chloramine

And thank you for the responses you all.

 

[420autoflower]

Do you keep the tops down after flattening the plants out? (Or let it grow vertically again?)
We still want them to stretch a little bit vertically also after scrogging out, right?

Hey @greenauto!
Have you scrogged any of your autos yet?

 

[420autoflower]

Going back to an older post to give my two cents PSA: Water treated with chlorine or chloramine (which does not really break down if you let the water sit) can be dechlorinated with minuscule amounts of ascorbic acid aka vitamin c. As far as I understand, with chlorine a ratio of 1:2-3 of vitamin c to chlorine and with chloramine 1:1 does the job. This can be helpful for people who don't have RO water and want dechlorinated water plus for those whose local water is treated with chloramine

And thank you for the responses you all.

Thank you!
Great info