No bother at all brother, we're all here to share what we can.
Defoliation is very subjective.. it's something you do by feel rather a prescribed way, well it is for me. tucking leaves is good but as you've discovered it becomes a real pain doin it over and over again to the same leaf, only too have it pop back up and cover the site you are trying to get more light to, these are the kind of leaves that might get my attention but the other thing i look out for is how much growth is coming out at the node of the leaf you want to cull, if there is no stock forming or leaves i would leave it, as once you remove the leaf, it will be relying on its smaller leaves to promote any further growth. I've been super-cropping DP strains for years now(always remember this point,I'm talking about how i work on these strains and not short stuff) and it has no or little effect, in fact it promotes growth in other parts of the plant, basically i use LST to get the plant to respond in a certain way early on in the grow and i use super-cropping as a way to control the plant, if a branch heads towards the light too quick leaving the others behind, i will super-crop it……Anyway while we're on the subject.
Day 25… Super-Cropping….. first i'm going to show you what i've done in this grow and then i'll talk further about what i've done previously. So Queen Hardon as i said in the above post has already produced the two extra branches that i wanted to develop, then i noticed another two or three on that branch, that could be brought on too, so what i need to do is lower the top of the side branch and then super-crop the two developed branches from the first node, to try to fool the other developing branches into thinking they can be dominant. This is what it looks like now. The super-cropped branch can be seen on the left and the branch i'm trying to develop, is the one slightly higher than it on the right.
I always try to super-crop a branch as near to a node as possible, so while the branch is healing, two more branches can develop at that node, again they feel it is their chance to dominate. Here's a picture showing it in more detail.
Now let me show you what can be done to DP autos and perhaps dispel a few myths about what can be done to autos. Years ago when i was growing photos we used to let them grow about 18" then snap them right at the bottom of the plant, lay them out flat and let al the side branches head for the sky before switching the lights to 12/12 after they had healed. Of course you couldn't do that do an auto…..or could you. Here is a Think Different that had this done to it,it wasn't laid out but it was snapped.
Two to three hours later it gave me the middle finger and looked like this.
Amazing in such a short period it had righted its self and went back towards the light, and in time it healed beautifully.
Now back to why it's a good idea to do the cropping near a node and how it encourages the branches at that node to grow, so much so that i could do this to them, this is the from the first cane grow with the BAM.
Also it is well know and perceived knowledge that you wouldn't super-crop a plant while in full bloom, photo or auto. or could you. and what would happen if you did, this is what happens with DP Autos…..You get pool balls on the end of your buds and the rest of the bud splits up heads for the light and fattens up along its length, this plant was super-cropped at eight weeks, two weeks before finishing.
The same thing happened to a StarRyder given the same treatment. The branch at the back leaning was also super-cropped very late in flower and took on that ball shaped end.
Anyway i hope this has been of some use to anyone thinking about either Defoliating or Super-Cropping.
I'm off to smoke a phat one and get on the wine. :smoking: