New Grower Hello! Need your advice/opinion..

[Bob's Auto's]

Yes, there is a chart but I don't quite understand if I should do it or just stop feeding.. but never mind you already answered my question, thank you so much!

Put it in the thread. Maybe @St. Tom or @Mañ'O'Green can give you some advise on what to use when

 

[DABaracuss]

Welcome to the AFN Army. I do both depending on the strain. But regardless I stop feeding a week or more before I pull it but not to flush but to get the plant to start sucking up the power in the leaf so they fall off before chop because I'm lazy and hate to trim LOL But that just my personal PREF . Looks like you have a while to go through. Take close up pics with your cam and look at the resin and see if the tops are clear cloudy or amber. 50% amber is when most of us pull if you want more of a STONe let it go 40 or 50% amber.Good LUCK

 

[Poindexter]

Looking good! It’s your plant if you think its too risky to cut leaves don’t. i say keep doing whatever you have been and once those pistils are mostly brown and the buds are plump, stop nutes if you want. The plants will just pull from the leaves anyways. You still have some time to go. i think you’re going to see that main cola start falling over from the weight but that’s a good thing

 

[Mañ'O'Green]

@Skyscreaper Welcome to AFN Your plants look fine! When you take pictures to post use Daylight 5000K and turn off the grow lights.

When you use a fertilizer line it is best to use ALL of the products in the line ONLY. Read why here:

Tutorial - A word on Nutrients

The proper use of “salt” based fertilizer to grow Auto Flowering Cannabis. Salts: Natural and man made any chemical compound formed from the reaction of an acid with a base, with all or part of the hydrogen of the acid replaced by a metal or other cation. Learning how to use salt based...

www.autoflower.org

Your fertilizer line offers this feed chart. For the first three weeks you should be using all 5 products in the balance they give at 50% strength for soil as stated in the chart. Autoflowers may need less then that. Get an EC meter so you know what strength you are actually feeding because a ml of this and a ml of that is meaningless.

Then in week four the balance and strength changes. Root drops out and Growth/Bloom excellarator is added. Etc.

I do not defoliate nor do I recommend it in autos except to give better airflow under the plant in late flower for mold prevention. Photoperiod plants are a different story and not for this conversation.

 

[Skyscreaper]

Thank you for the detailed explanation I really appreciate it!

Yes, I've read that since the autos have a short lifecycle it's not recommended to defoliate them because they can get stressed unnecessary.. but regardless, I did remove few branches and some of the leafs which were in the way so they could get a better light/ventilation. I didn't remove them at once, but few times after 3 day period in veg and the beginning of the flower.. Could you please advise me when should I do the last defoliation, I mean which week before harvest, or should I do it at all.. The brown pistons started to show up like 5 days ago so It must be close to the end, 2-3 weeks max I think.. According to the seed bank, it has 8-week bloom cycle, and I'm on the half of week 5.. I will continue following the chart as recommended by you and Bob's Auto's so I will forget about flushing them. Thank you again, it's awesome to learn new things every day, and there are passionate people like you who like to help new growers like myself!

 

[Skyscreaper]

Here are the latest images.. I know that I fucked up the lower branches.. had to do the LST better I guess.. I saw that some of the branches were going nowhere and decided to remove them instead.. not sure if it was the right call or not

 

[kfigerm]

Hi,
I use those too (but perhaps not really - depending on what npk ratio yours have, mine are very old).
You can go with just the three. If you already have all the components, use them.
Switching to "flowering" a week after showing sex and then right after stretch finished to "end of flowering". Go less than half strength of all until a week you switched to "end of flowering" and then raise - go after EC, not the values on the chart.
Your pics are fine!
If your lower leaves go yellow at a point on lacking N you might want to add your calmag. The end bloom is really low on N, so you can up that a bit at earlier times.
There is a lucas formula calculation, some go only with micro+bloom.
I loved them in dwc and hempy but in soil I always had some glitches.

Good Luck!

 

[Skyscreaper]

Hi,
I use those too (but perhaps not really - depending on what npk ratio yours have, mine are very old).
You can go with just the three. If you already have all the components, use them.
Switching to "flowering" a week after showing sex and then right after stretch finished to "end of flowering". Go less than half strength of all until a week you switched to "end of flowering" and then raise - go after EC, not the values on the chart.
Your pics are fine!
If your lower leaves go yellow at a point on lacking N you might want to add your calmag. The end bloom is really low on N, so you can up that a bit at earlier times.
There is a lucas formula calculation, some go only with micro+bloom.
I loved them in dwc and hempy but in soil I always had some glitches.

Good Luck!

Hello!

Thank you for your advice!

Actually, I only have the 1,2,3 bottles, not the rest that are shown below . I use the nutes for the flowering stage, and 1ml Calmag per liter. There were few slightly yellow leafs, but nothing too bad.. From what I understand, (please forgive me if I didn't..) I should switch to the End of Flowering stage feed now, and use calmag if I see any deficiencies is that correct?

 

[kfigerm]

to my experience that worked out well with short period autos 10-11 weeks. Most of the time i switched to full bloom araound week 5, just a little earlier than on the chart. This time I was late definitely, but it was the first run after a while and I have to dial in also again.
Because of the high N still in the soil you can switch early on to the bloom nutes and if you see lower leaves go yellowing before the last autumn days, you can put some N in there. As the most of the calmag stuff has that and the soil ist most of the time at the point where this can lack (depending on water too), thats what I add to up N if necessary. If you go after the scedule you have a NPK 5-8-9 ratio at gbm 1-2-1 and with gbm 0-3-1 you have around NPK 4.5-15-11.5 (with my npk ratios on the bottles, they may differ now from yours).
As i think that was also because i once heard of a relatively high mg in the bloom part (which is only hearsay, because i never found mg documented at any value in that ferts). But that would explain why i moreoften saw cal defs than mg defs starting flower (when using only RO water). Take that with a salt of grain it's been a while for me too.

Good luck, I'll keep watching on how they work out for you. As I said, i must also regain skills to use them properly.

 

[kfigerm]

a little addendum: as I don't follow the schedule exactly anymore, but follow my own calculations, I run this at bloom: gmb 1-3-1 which gives me NPK 7-16.2-16.5 - you see a high N here with the others on par. So if you want to you may add some pk13/14 - but no calmag in there - enough N. So if your water and soil is OK you might try this mix..but go check EC.