MrAutoGrower Grows - FB Bruce Banner + Mephisto 3Wok

[MrAutoGrower]

I ran around 2-3L of somewhat light feed (around 380ppm) through jammy dodgers earlier. I watered it slowly to leech salts out the bottom. So it eventually ran off nice and slow, I taken a sample of the run off solution and the run off ppms stand at 150ppms at most. Now I’ve never had this happen before. These plants are quite small compared to some other big girls that I have grown. The big girls used to “act up” when I fed them 1.5ml of Advanced Nutrients Bloom with some additives. I never normally go over 500ppms. So I don’t know if this is anomaly, or they are demanding stronger feeds. I don’t fully understand why they would need stronger feeds when my bigger plants never. Could it Be that I’ve just not produced enough run off? either that or despite them being quite small, they might have major roots and demanding more. All it takes Is around 2-3L a day until run off. To my understanding, that means they are losing by drinking or transpiring at least 2-3L a day. They’re never bone dry. What concerns me is that I noticed some rust spots on both jammy dodgers and brucey - either they are demanding more, or I’ve over fert with the 1.5ml. But if that was the case, I’m certain the run off ppms would Be higher than input...

Any input broskis? @Cooterjuice @St. Tom
Input appreciated ❤

 

[Bob's Auto's]

Definitely still have gnats. They’re proving annoying and have prob been nibbling on these precious roots from day dot. I found a “glue pit” sticky fly trap. These things aren’t ideal for plant use because they’re super sticky and blow around from fan. I’ve stuck one on the wall and added a ton of diatomaceous earth on the top of the pebbles and stalk of the plants.

I don’t really wanna use hydrogen peroxide and water because I’m using coco, and they've started flower. Using hydrogen peroxide will kill off the benefits of mycorrhizae and prob be wild the root zone.

Anyone have any good recommendations for these little fuckers? Moreso the larvae. Would love to Be able to use something effective that can Be applied with nutrients so they don’t get fed straight water

What you need are nematodes. More specifically Steinernema carpocapsae. These will clean house in the entire tent.
They can be used to water into the soil for gnats or on the leaves if you have spider mites.
An example of a nematode catching it's prey...

 

[St. Tom]

i only measure runoff if im having major issues with coco and its rare and on say solo cups I've never measured them sadly so cant help but I found this elsewhere but just take it with a pinch of salt as I don't know how accurate it is also @Mañ'O'Green is are nutes guy he may be able to advice

Run-Off: EC Targets and Corrective Actions
Run-off EC Should be within 300 Points of Inflow EC:
The EC of the run-off will be slightly higher than the inflow, but should be very close. Under normal conditions, the run-off EC may be up to 300 points higher than the inflow. This is acceptable and is the reason we set inflow targets near the low end of the recommended range. You need to manage it close to that range. If it becomes higher than +400, remedial actions should be pursued.

If Run-off EC is High:
The best solution is to increase fertigation frequency. The most likely cause of high EC run-off is excessive losses to evaporation between fertigation events. Increasing frequency will help to prevent EC from drifting too high between fertigation events.

If increasing frequency is not practical or not helping, then you should increase quantity of nutrient solution applied at each fertigation to ensure a thorough saturation of the media. Increasing the quantity of run-off should help lower the quantity of salts in the root zone. Quantities may be reduced as EC returns to the acceptable range.

Only if run-off EC is dangerously or persistently high, should flushing with a lower EC solution be considered.

If Run-off EC is Low:
It is less likely that EC of the run-off will be lower than the inflow. Normally, when this occurs it is temporary and self-correcting within 4 fertigation events. If it seems to persist, there may be a problem with inadequate distribution of water during fertigation events. This is more likely with automatic watering systems. As we discuss in our “Guide to Automatic Watering for Indoor Cannabis", poor distribution with automatic watering drippers can create a situation where salts accumulate, and plants are burned even as the EC of the run-off is low.

EC Run-off Guidelines:
When the run-off EC starts to climb, the best course of action is to increase the fertigation frequency. If this is not possible, the second-best option is to increase the quantity of run-off at each event. Only when these methods cannot control the run-off EC within the acceptable limit, should you consider lowering the EC of the inflow or “Flushing to Lower EC”. See our tutorial, “When and How to Flush Cannabis Plants”.

Coco For Cannabis EC Run-off Guidelines:

If Run-off EC is:(Compared to inflow)	Status	Action
Lower than inflow EC	Anomaly	Not a problem. Should self-correct.
Within +200*	Ideal	Monitor EC twice weekly
+200 to +300	Acceptable	Monitor EC daily, consider increasing fertigation frequency
+300 to +400	Caution	Increase fertigation frequency and/or Increase quantity of run-off.
+400 or Higher	Danger	Consider flushing: See “When and How to Flush Cannabis Plants”

 

[MrAutoGrower]

i only measure runoff if im having major issues with coco and its rare and on say solo cups I've never measured them sadly so cant help but I found this elsewhere but just take it with a pinch of salt as I don't know how accurate it is also @Mañ'O'Green is are nutes guy he may be able to advice

Run-Off: EC Targets and Corrective Actions
Run-off EC Should be within 300 Points of Inflow EC:
The EC of the run-off will be slightly higher than the inflow, but should be very close. Under normal conditions, the run-off EC may be up to 300 points higher than the inflow. This is acceptable and is the reason we set inflow targets near the low end of the recommended range. You need to manage it close to that range. If it becomes higher than +400, remedial actions should be pursued.

If Run-off EC is High:
The best solution is to increase fertigation frequency. The most likely cause of high EC run-off is excessive losses to evaporation between fertigation events. Increasing frequency will help to prevent EC from drifting too high between fertigation events.

If increasing frequency is not practical or not helping, then you should increase quantity of nutrient solution applied at each fertigation to ensure a thorough saturation of the media. Increasing the quantity of run-off should help lower the quantity of salts in the root zone. Quantities may be reduced as EC returns to the acceptable range.

Only if run-off EC is dangerously or persistently high, should flushing with a lower EC solution be considered.

If Run-off EC is Low:
It is less likely that EC of the run-off will be lower than the inflow. Normally, when this occurs it is temporary and self-correcting within 4 fertigation events. If it seems to persist, there may be a problem with inadequate distribution of water during fertigation events. This is more likely with automatic watering systems. As we discuss in our “Guide to Automatic Watering for Indoor Cannabis", poor distribution with automatic watering drippers can create a situation where salts accumulate, and plants are burned even as the EC of the run-off is low.

EC Run-off Guidelines:
When the run-off EC starts to climb, the best course of action is to increase the fertigation frequency. If this is not possible, the second-best option is to increase the quantity of run-off at each event. Only when these methods cannot control the run-off EC within the acceptable limit, should you consider lowering the EC of the inflow or “Flushing to Lower EC”. See our tutorial, “When and How to Flush Cannabis Plants”.

Coco For Cannabis EC Run-off Guidelines:

If Run-off EC is:(Compared to inflow)	Status	Action
Lower than inflow EC	Anomaly	Not a problem. Should self-correct.
Within +200*	Ideal	Monitor EC twice weekly
+200 to +300	Acceptable	Monitor EC daily, consider increasing fertigation frequency
+300 to +400	Caution	Increase fertigation frequency and/or Increase quantity of run-off.
+400 or Higher	Danger	Consider flushing: See “When and How to Flush Cannabis Plants”

I’ve read these many times bro. It states it will correct itself but both my plants are quite heavily under their input ppms. I have roots out the bottom of the pot which never happens for me even if the plants are bigger. I’m wondering if the sensizym I’m using Is really doing a good job at removing debris from the medium, and that is essentially allowing the plants to consume much more than my normal plants can. Using more sensizym now than I ever did. Jammy Dodgers was fed 380 ppms or so as a test. I fed Bruce banner are 550 ppms pretty much and the run off was 205ppm. I usually feed around 400-480ppms Is quite the jump. The spots can indicate over fert, lock out, or they need more cal/mag. But ppms are low, and ph is in range so I dont think they’re overfed. I’m only my first two weeks into flower, and I’ve seen this happen before for me in soil. I suppose I can only wait to see what the ppms are tomorrow when I do another feed and see if they are higher than today. Just been trying to figure out if their feed strengths need upped compared to usual. I would like to hope so, so I can make the best of them haha.

Edit: I’ve been digging and read info on sensizym. My theory of sensizym possibility aiding the plants to uptake more nutrients seems to be spot-on. I read that sensizym does actually increase nutrient uptake. Chances are my ppms are lower because they are actually eating more. I’ll confirm this over the next few days for anyone who maybe interested. If that’s the case, then I wish I checked my run off much sooner because i could have probably blasted them with heavier feeds and they’d have ended up bigger

 

[St. Tom]

I’ve read these many times bro. It states it will correct itself but both my plants are quite heavily under their input ppms. I have roots out the bottom of the pot which never happens for me even if the plants are bigger. I’m wondering if the sensizym I’m using Is really doing a good job at removing debris from the medium, and that is essentially allowing the plants to consume much more than my normal plants can. Using more sensizym now than I ever did. Jammy Dodgers was fed 380 ppms or so as a test. I fed Bruce banner are 550 ppms pretty much and the run off was 205ppm. I usually feed around 400-480ppms Is quite the jump. The spots can indicate over fert, lock out, or they need more cal/mag. But ppms are low, and ph is in range so I dont think they’re overfed. I’m only my first two weeks into flower, and I’ve seen this happen before for me in soil. I suppose I can only wait to see what the ppms are tomorrow when I do another feed and see if they are higher than today. Just been trying to figure out if their feed strengths need upped compared to usual. I would like to hope so, so I can make the best of them haha.

Edit: I’ve been digging and read info on sensizym. My theory of sensizym possibility aiding the plants to uptake more nutrients seems to be spot-on. I read that sensizym does actually increase nutrient uptake. Chances are my ppms are lower because they are actually eating more. I’ll confirm this over the next few days for anyone who maybe interested. If that’s the case, then I wish I checked my run off much sooner because i could have probably blasted them with heavier feeds and they’d have ended up bigger

:smokingn autoflowers some of my autopot plants always showed issues a couple; of weeks into flower after switching to flower feed and I just needed to up the nitrogen a bit to keep them happy mainly by adding calmag if it persisted I just top fed them after giving them a small flush so it was lockout or salt build-up for me also I wish I could help more bro but to be honest I mostly wing it

 

[Cooterjuice]

Looks like @St. Tom pretty well has you covered. I've never ran AN line before. 500ppm seems low to me though. I feed that during seedling/start of veg. One thing I noticed though when I started using coco, the demand for cal mag was definitely higher. I always feed nutrients w/ cal mag (5ml per gallon) the entire run.

 

[MrAutoGrower]

Looks like @St. Tom pretty well has you covered. I've never ran AN line before. 500ppm seems low to me though. I feed that during seedling/start of veg. One thing I noticed though when I started using coco, the demand for cal mag was definitely higher. I always feed nutrients w/ cal mag (5ml per gallon) the entire run.

AN base feed is super concentrated. I normally get plants from start to finish using 1ml per litre.

 

[MrAutoGrower]

I supercropped 3Wok as an experiment again. I’ve learned a lot with experimenting this grow. Gonna see how she ends up.

BEfore supercrop:

After:

 

[MrAutoGrower]

3Wok has responded amazingly to the supercrop and defoliation. Less than a day and this is how she’s looking. I taken a major risk with supercropping then feeding 2ml per litre but she loved it!

 

[MrAutoGrower]

3wok ain’t in the best shape. She eventually reacted to the 2ml feed and showing nitrogen tox I knew 2ml was too much.


Anyways they’ve still been stretching. I have been tying down but some branches on jammy dodgers are too thick. Don’t really wanna supercrop them two weeks into flower. I’ll pull them down a bit better tomorrow or next day. Uneven, just to try and open them up a bit. Don’t want no molding!